Closing in on the yarn bowl

And I thought this was going to be a simple project!  On the other hand, it's coming out really well, but with a lot more work than I expected.

First, since the feedback from my testers was that the prototype bowls needed more weight, I had to come up with a practical and attractive way to do that. Thank goodness I saved some old lead sinkers--they were just the thing, but they're not sold in NY, so I need to go to CT for a fresh supply.

Then I needed to make a cutting pattern that could be attached to the inside of the bowl, since that's the way it has to be cut to use the scroll saw.  My prototypes were marked on the outside, then I drilled little holes to outline the pattern, but that was far too messy to impose on others. Fortunately, that was easier than I expected, since I had one of my prototype bowls to copy.  And I had some small spiral blades standing at the ready, in case the regular blades didn't reach all the areas to be cut. They did--but barely.

Last, I had to work out a systematic way of smoothing and sanding the cutout areas.  That's the challenge when you're writing instructions.  You can't simply say, "Sand until it looks right". My little Dremel sanders, and the little carbide burrs did a good job, and I'm starting to get the hang of using them.

Now I'm waiting for the new supply of weights to arrive so I can finish up.  Just hope the weather stays warm enough so I can heat my garage.  I'll post pictures when I'm done--I think you'll like it.

Sanding shortcut for bowls

You need to be careful not to take off too much wood, but sanding the exterior of curved-sided bowls with this technique can be a big time-saver.

Yarn bowl experiment

I had never heard of a yarn bowl until I attended a recent crafts fair and saw one made of ceramic.

It's a bowl meant to hold a ball of yarn and keep it from rolling about while you're knitting.  I located lots of pictures online, and created three prototypes.  Since I wasn't sure if they would really work, I brought them to a local yarn shop today and asked if their knitters could test them out and give me feedback.

I'm eager to see what they can tell me, and what suggestions they have.  Once I know what changes, if any, I need to make, I can work on plans for one to submit for publication.  I'll post pictures of my prototypes when I get them back, along with the feedback I received.

If something is going out under my name, it had better deliver what it promises!

New use for bowl cutoffs

I try to limit the number of cutoffs that I keep, and usually can stay on top of things so that my wood storage remains manageable. However, Joe always goes through my trash bin before he empties it, and a lot of my discards end up in his section of the shop.

Take a careful look at the shelf supports, and you'll recognize the pair as half the wood left over after making the first cut of a bowl.  Gotta admit that it's pretty clever, but now I'll never be able to get rid of anything!

Tile top table--the video

Just in case you missed it, here's some info about how the table was made. If you're planning one of your own, feel free to contact me if you have any questions. It was a lot of work, but we just love it!

A different type of project

Although my primary tool is the scroll saw, I'm also involved with more typical woodworking projects, primarily as a planner and helper. I'm the one who makes the second and third measurements before cutting, and double checks plans and dimensions. With two woodworkers on board, everything goes a little more smoothly, and two pair of eyes and hands are usually better than just one.

This tile-topped table is the first major project from our woodshop, custom made to fill the need for a table big enough for four, but not too large for two, made of cherry, with a top that's not subject to damage. It took months for all the planning, shopping, wood prep cutting and finishing, not to mention figuring out how to support the heavy tile. Now that it's done, with only minor problems that were easily corrected, it's a real pleasure to use.

Flexible Pad Sanders: some new thoughts for bowl makers

Here's some information that can help you choose the most appropriate flexible pad sander and accessories for your bowls.

Bow boxes go mainstream!

This summer, I was asked by Woodworker's Journal to design a holiday-themed project for their December issue.  I decided on a bow box with holiday colors, using red and green dyed veneer for the ribbon lamination.

To my surprise and delight, they decided to feature it on the cover. Since it's unusual for "mainstream" woodworking magazines to feature scrolled projects at all, I was especially pleased to see my box receiving such nice recognition.  Great way to start the day!

Sanding sleeve tip

I've had a hard time distinguishing between the different grit sleeves for the inflatable round sander once they get used.  The coarsest and finest are pretty easy to tell apart, but the fine and medium look pretty much alike once I've used them a few times.  So, I've started marking them on the inside before the first use, and find that it really helps to tell them apart.

My new Dremel set-up

I decided that some carving tools would help speed the process of wood removal for shaped bowls.  After asking around, I figured that my best bet, for starters, was to get some carbide burrs for my Dremel.  I bought three different shapes with 1/8" shanks, dusted off my flex shaft and holder, bought a leather glove to protect the "holding" hand and gave it a try.  I also positioned myself by the drill press, where I have a pretty efficient dust collection system, and also could sit at a comfortable height.

The results seemed good enough to order another Dremel (reconditioned, without accessories) so I could have it ready to go without having to change over parts.  Here's a picture of my set-up:

If all goes as planned, I should have some interesting projects to post down the road!

Too sharp an angle, too little room

Round bowls are very forgiving, but once you move into shapes with tighter curves, you have to be sure that you can sand the lowest ring.  After I lost my first blank because of the lopsided pattern, I had to reduce the size of the pattern for the next attempt by 1/2" so it would fit the wood I had.  I forgot that the effect on the bottom edge of the lowest ring was likely to be dramatic.

Sure enough, even with my little round inflatable, there was no way I could sand the lower edge into a rounded shape and still have enough wood left to glue on the base.  I gave it my best shot, but sometimes you just have to give up.  These are views of what the top and bottom of the lower ring looked like, before I realized that it just wouldn't work.

I solved the problem by re-cutting the lower rings at a slightly smaller angle, which gave me more room to maneuver.  For the next petal bowl, I'm going back to my full-sized pattern.  Should make the sanding a lot simpler!

My new petal bowl

Finally finished the bowl, and it will serve as a prototype for variations that I'd like to try.  I'll be covering various aspects of this type of construction over several posts.

This is what the finished bowl looks like.  It consists of three separate elements: incurving rings for the lower part and bottom, incurving rings for the upper part, and a flared ring for the outcurving petals.

Here's what the rings look like, and how they stack together.  You can see why it's necessary to have all blanks and tops clearly marked to avoid mixing up the rings.















The rings have to be glued in stages in order to sand the insides.  The more work that can be done at this stage, the easier it will be to work on it once assembled.  Here are some of the parts ready to glue and sand.  The only type of sander that can be used is the round inflatable, both larger and smaller sizes.  Sometimes it's necessary to use them with a flex shaft if the drill chuck gets in the way.

I'll cover other aspects of the construction in later posts.  If you have any specific questions, please feel free to post comments or send an email.

New bowl shape in the works

For the past week, I've been working on a new bowl shape that I've been wanting to try for some time. It's been an exercise in frustration, but I think it's going to work out.  First try, I discovered that my pattern was lopsided.  Of course I didn't notice this until I had cut a full set of rings.  It was not lopsided enough to be interesting--just looked weird!  Designer firewood for sure!

Second attempt ended when the first ring for the bottom half of the bowl split just after it was cut.  I was using Philippine mahogany, which is very porous, for the prototype, and there was a defect in the wood.  I was afraid that even if I glued it together, it would break under the pressure of the bowl press.  More designer firewood!

So, I gave it a third attempt. Unfortunately, the only remaining wood I had was not a good match for the top set of rings, but I was desperate.  So far, so good, but I've gone through just about every sander I own to get the shape I wanted.  I'm now looking into some small power carving tools, since my sanders are not small enough and take too long to remove the wood.

Once the bowl is finished, I'll post it, along with some process pictures.  It's been a challenge, but points to some interesting possibilities for scrollers looking for some new ideas to play with.

A different perspective

The two most neglected areas of scrolled bowls tend to be the top and bottom edges of the rings.

It takes a lot of patience to get the top rim evenly thinned and shaped.  And the lower edge of the bottom ring, which can't be sanded after the base is glued on, is often a nightmare.  Take off too much wood and you can't glue the base on.  I've found that sanding that ring upside down makes it easier to see the actual shape and where work needs to be done.

Just for fun, I shot pictures of two recent bowls from the top.  The effect is quite interesting and you can clearly see the shaping of the bottom ring.  I'm always very relieved when that part is done, since it's easy to lose control of the rings and have it snag on the sander and go flying.  Even if no one else notices, it's nice to be satisfied with the finished job.

Drill press is fixed--lesson learned

New belts arrived on time, we cleaned up all the debris and filed down the rough spot on one of the pulleys that we think caused all the trouble.

The first thing I noticed was the tremendous decrease in vibration when I sanded.  I had assumed it was me, or the sanders, but it must have been the failing belt.

Lesson learned: when tools start sounding or acting "funny", that's a signal to check out belts, tighten nuts, and attend to anything that could be a source of the problem before it gets worse.

Tool maintenance (sigh!)

Here I was, sanding away at the last of a set of three related bowls that I've been eager to post, when suddenly the drill press chuck stopped dead but the motor kept on whirring.  Yup--broken belt!  Not just broken, but pretty badly shredded.  So, tomorrow I'll try to hunt down a replacement and get the machine up and running and see if we can figure out what happened to destroy the belt so badly.

It's tough to remember to check tools periodically when they're running fine, but I'm going to have to develop better habits if I want to keep my tools, and me, happy!

On a brighter note, the first of my new bowl projects will be appearing in the December issue of Creative Woodworks & Crafts.  It's a rounded square bowl with a decorative rim--not difficult but quite nice.  Two other projects will be appearing at some point in other publications--I'll post notice of those as soon as I know when they will appear.  Glad my drill press held up until those were all safely submitted!

My Hegner scroll saw

I enjoy sharing my experiences with tools with other woodworkers, especially since there are so few places see or test out tools before buying.  This video focuses on those aspects of the Hegner that make it a fine tool to own, and a rewarding one to use.

Measure twice, cut once--with a twist!

You're probably familiar with the old adage cautioning you to re-check your measurements before you make your cuts.  One problem, however, is that if you made a mistake once, you're likely to make the same error when you repeat your measurements.

To help minimize the waste of time, energy, and wood, here are two suggestions:

First, use a different method to measure the second time.  For example, if you used a ruler the first time, use a tape the second time.  If you measured top down the first time, measure bottom up the second time.

Second, take advantage of another person's input.  Even if that person is not a woodworker, he or she can still help you measure.

Joe and I just replaced a rotten piece of fascia that had three angled cuts to make.  Joe made an error on length, and I made an error on one of the angles.  Between us, however, we managed to complete the job with only one minor re-cut, and no lost wood.  BTW, never be tempted to use pre-primed finger-jointed wood for the exterior, especially for horizontal applications--it's worth the extra cost of decent wood to avoid the risk of premature rot.

Scroll saw inserts

Some scroll saws, like the Hegner, have removable center inserts, while others, like the DeWalt, have an opening for the blade that is cut directly into the saw table.  Having used both types of saws, I prefer removable inserts.  Here's why:

1. If you accidentally cut into the table itself, there's not much you can do to correct the problem.  If you cut into an insert, you can replace it easily.

2. If you need more support for your workpiece than a regular insert (left) provides, or if you are cutting tiny pieces that will fall through the opening, you can replace the regular insert with a zero clearance insert.  The one for the Hegner comes uncut (center), and you cut into it with the blade of your choice (right).

If your saw has no insert and you must reduce the room around the blade, you can make do with a playing card taped to the table--less elegant, but better than nothing.

Re-sizing a lid

If you've made scrolled boxes with conventional lids, you know that an ideal fit can sometimes be difficult to obtain.  I accidentally cut this box just a bit too small for the lid, and to fix the problem, decided to cut a new lid.  For a custom fit, I traced the outside of the box onto the lid pattern, and used this as my cutting line for the inside of the lid.

After cutting, I checked the size before I glued the lower piece to the top of the box.  Next time, I'll just cut the box a little proud and save myself some trouble!

Band saw extension table

We rarely buy wood this large, but the legs on the kitchen table we're building required a good-sized piece of 12/4 cherry.  Before running it through the table saw, it needed to be cut into manageable pieces, and the band saw was the best tool for the job.

To ensure stability while ripping, we constructed a simple outfeed table.  When used with our heavy-duty roller stand and a cabinet that was almost the right height, the wood fed easily and safely.  I stood on the outfeed side to help control the wood and adjust for the blade drift.

The rest of the trimming will be done at the table saw, then we'll give it some passes through the drum sander (which handles wood up to 4" thick) to make sure the thickness is uniform.  Then Joe will taper the legs and cut the mortises.  Still need to figure out what to do for the top--something attractive but practical.

The completed acrylic box

Not exactly a quick and easy project, but we solved the problem of using acrylic when you can't cut factory-perfect edges.  The base has a raised plywood insert to hold the top in place. The upper part of the molding, which hides the plywood edges, is offset slightly to facilitate the removal of the top.

Next time we'd do things a little differently, but this one worked out quite well for a first attempt.

 

A useful new discovery

Needed to make an acrylic box for the non-perishable top of my son's wedding cake.  Cutting the acrylic was not a problem (#5 Flying Dutchman polar blade and slow speed works great), but we decided to use wood at the edges since my scroll saw cuts were not precise enough to attach the acrylic edges directly.

Having had little success in the past with CA glue and epoxy, we decided to try caulk to hold the acrylic in the slots in the wood strips.  Although the caulk squeeze-out seemed to clean up with water, we were still left with unsightly residue in places once it dried.  Fortunately, a call to DAP yielded the suggestion to use mineral spirits, which worked like a charm and didn't harm the acrylic.

The assembly is almost complete, and I think it should work out OK.  I'll post pictures when we're finished, regardless of how it turns out!

New tools, new techniques, new possibilities

Here's how to construct, shape and sand a multi-lobe, curved bowl, featuring the small inflatable sander from King Arthur's Tools.  New tools, new techniques, new possibilities!

The new shop is finally complete

We finished the final job--to put in an additional circuit for the dust collector and flip it so the dust ports are on top.  The band saw is stored on the opposite wall, and can be rolled out when needed.  Joe's table saw is in the basement, where he has plenty of room for jigs and stuff.  And we can still get our car into the garage!

Easy fix to make a taller bowl press

I finally got tired of using a stack of books for gluing bowls that were too tall for my press.   I didn't want to undo the press, just add some height, so I added a few coupling nuts and some threaded rod.  For a more elegant version, check out Dave Van Ess's bowl press on scrollmania.com.  It's really neat and fits into its own box.

For now, this will do just fine!

Choosing a Dust Mask

A while back, I mentioned that I was trying out different dust masks, looking for the one that seemed most effective and was most comfortable to use.  With all the sanding I do, using a dust mask is a necessity.

I had been using a conventional dust mask, rated N99, and was pretty happy with it.  However, it tended to fog my protective goggles, so I bought a Dust Bee Gone and a Totobobo mask to see if either of them were better for me.  All were recommended by other users.

The Dust Bee Gone needed to be altered, since the medium size was too large for my face.  I removed the blue banding and cut back on the filtering material so it would fit properly.  I found that it was easy to damage the filtering material with the velcro on the straps, and that dust seemed to come through much too easily.  On top of that, my goggles still fogged, even though they were not supposed to.

The Totobobo was much too fidgety for me to use comfortably.  The adjustable straps are a very thin, stretchy plastic, and felt as though they would break at any time.  They didn't, but I felt uneasy every time I adjusted them.  In addition, the plastic would be quite uncomfortable in warm weather, and you needed to keep replacement filters on hand.  And my goggles still fogged!

So, I'm back to using my standard dust mask.  I keep a supply on hand, and am learning to adjust my goggles to control the fogging.  I know that others have been very happy with the Dust Bee Gone and the Totobobo, but unfortunately, I'm not one of them.

Sanding with SuperMax

Finally gave my new SuperMax Drum sander a proper workout, and it really met all my expectations. Nice when that happens!

Second project from new shop

I'm determined to use as much of my stored wood as possible before buying or re-sawing more lumber. This bowl used part of a piece of teak I've been storing for several years.  Teak cuts very nicely, even though the silica it contains is hard on blades.  The oiliness is controlled by sanding just before gluing, and I used spray lacquer which I find to be pretty problem-free.

In addition to the teak, I used cherry and purpleheart for the decorative rings, and maple and mahogany veneers and thin wood.

The sanding and shaping was demanding and took a long time.  Even then, it wasn't perfect, but I know my limits!

Jewelry Box article in June Woodworker's Journal

It's always exciting when one of my projects appears in a "mainstream" woodworking publication like Woodworker's Journal.  This cherry jewelry box, with a removable 3-compartment insert, appears in the current issue (June, 2013).  I haven't seen the edited article yet, but they always do a super job, and I'm pleased that the project met their needs.

New sanding video is up and running

I just posted another sanding video on YouTube to cover some tips that I thought would be useful.  They are at the opposite ends of the spectrum with regard to cost, but both are worth considering.

Drum sander alternative

If you're interested in making bowls from glued-up blanks, you know that getting the finished blank flat without a drum sander is quite a task.  One of my readers found the following approach useful, and kindly made the plans available to anyone in need of a drum sander alternative.  Here it is:

I made a router planing jig based on a plan from workshopcompanion.com. I made the jig, installed an Amana 1 1/4” bowl and tray bit (#45986) which has a flat bottom, and went to work on it. The routing itself was easy.  I made shallow cuts and overlapped my passes, probably more than I needed but this was an initial test. I began by putting the flattest side face down, (wedged it in) did the routing and then flipped the piece and routed the second side. It came out amazingly good. I briefly sanded the face with 320 grit paper on my RO sander and the faces were smooth as silk and absolutely flat. My only cost was the purchase of the bit, which I got from Marden’s, Inc. in Waterville, Maine. I made my purchase thru Amazon. Marden's had this bit for about $25 whereas every else wanted $40 or more. I already had the wood so my total cost for the project was about $30 and a couple of hours work to build the jig.  I found that no matter which way you run the router against the blank there is absolutely no tear out as the bit has a 1/4” radius and does not aggressively attack the edges of the blank, regardless of the direction of the grain.

Just one more cut . . .

I am sure there are many, many sad stories from folks who were tempted to push beyond the point they should have stopped for the day, and ended up either messing up their work, or having an accident.

I was tempted to continue gluing up a decorative blank the other day, but when I thought of all the things that could have gone wrong with just that simple operation, I was glad I stopped.  The wood had to be perfectly aligned, the glue applied evenly, and clamped well in place.  Sounds simple, but under the pressure of getting it done, I could see not checking carefully for alignment, having to undo the clamps to set it right, having to put more glue on, etc. etc.

Those are small stakes compared to what can happen when you rush while using a tool like the table saw, and don't take your usual precautions.  It's so tempting to try to get as much done as possible, but the end of a work session should be just that, with a fresh start next time when you're more willing to take the time to do the job right.

Updated way to make a box

At the Saratoga Spring's woodworking show, my demo included an updated way to make a scrolled box.  This video describes the process.  If you've been making these boxes the usual way, I think you'll find the new way quite an improvement.

First project from the new shop

It seemed fitting that my first project would reflect my intention to continue work on more advanced bowls.  These are bowls that typically use two or three blanks, have curved sides, and are more time-consuming to make.  They may also have to be glued up in stages to allow access for sanding the interiors.

I included a picture of the completed bowl, as well as a picture before any exterior sanding was done.  For sanding the interior, I used both the regular and mini sized round inflatable, as well as the long inflatable drum.  For sanding the exterior, I used the regular round inflatable for the "valleys" and the 2" flexible pad sander for the rest.

I brought the bowl to the NWA show at Saratoga Springs this past weekend, and had fun teasing the turners, many of whom had no idea you could do this with the scroll saw.

Northeastern Woodworker's Showcase this weekend

Just a reminder that I'll be presenting this Saturday, from 2-3:30 PM, at the woodworking show in Saratoga Springs.  I'll be discussing various aspects of "my" type of boxes, and demonstrating some techniques.  It's always an amazing show, with lots of quality vendors, and I'm glad I'll have plenty of time for shopping!

I was pleased to be mentioned on the flyer, and my brickwork vase, pictured on the flyer, was given a nice award at last year's show.

If you'll be there, be sure to come over and say "hi".

Using a flex shaft for bowls

Well, I decided it was time to try out the flex shaft I bought to use with the chuck on the SandFlee.  After connecting all the parts, I gave both the regular and mini round sanders a tryout.  I was not sure how to hold the bowl securely with one hand, but found that placing it on my work table gave me all the support I needed.

It was a pleasure to be able to get into the bowl without having to worry about scraping the top on the chuck.  The bowl I'm working on has lobes and is curved inward (will post pix when finished), so inserting the spinning sander was a little daunting.  However, as long as I remembered not to put the sander down while it was still spinning, I did just fine.

So, I can now say without hesitation that using a flex shaft does allow options not possible with the drill press, and that control of the bowl itself is not as much of a problem as I feared.  The top of my table is masonite.  If it were anything harder, I'd probably put down something to protect the wood.

Mini round inflatable in action!

I finally had a chance to try out the new mini round inflatable, the latest in King Arthur's Tools  Guinevere line-up.  It looked so tiny chucked into the drill press, but worked just fine.  I had a little trouble inflating it, until I realized that I needed to tighten the nut on top with a wrench, not just with my fingers.

I had one specific use in mind--to sand the inside of a tight curve without sanding wood off the gluing edge.  Since the new project I'm working on curves inward, I sanded the rings in stages for easier access.  This left gluing edges susceptible to damage, and demanded real care.  I'm pleased to say that the mini came through with flying colors.  I have some other uses in mind, but those will just have to wait their turn.  It's fairly pricey for such a small sander, but the curved lower edge makes it unique, and invaluable.

Valentine's Day gift, part 2

The new drum sander is here!  We were impressed with how easily it assembled, and how solid it is.  It has the look and feel of an industrial tool, and I think it will prove to be a wise purchase.  What's odd is that were not aware of its existence until we received one of those mailers full of cards showing products for woodworkers, and it looked better suited to our needs than the sanders we had been considering.

Valentine's gift, part 1

We assembled the new dust collector yesterday--the first part of my Valentine's Day present.  It was just a bit larger than we expected, but the footprint is fairly small, and it should not be difficult for me to move around.  We're planning to use it for the belt-disc combo sander, the band saw, and the new drum sander.  Later today, we hope to get the stand for the drum sander assembled, and see what kind of help we'll need to get the sander itself (Valentine's Day present, part 2) on the stand--it is very, very heavy!

Shop is up and running!

Finally got a chance to start a new project, at long last.  It's one of the "next generation" bowls that I had started working on before the box book took me off into a different direction.  I intend to get instructions out, one way or another, for those looking for some new ideas for scrolled bowls.

The new setup, at this point, is just like the old shop.  However, we ordered a drum sander and dust collector, which should be here in a week or so.  The drum sander is truly essential for my glue-ups, and the dust collector is truly essential for the drum sander.  The sander I had used in the community shop was a disaster--abused, mistreated, and barely usable.

Hopefully, the coldest days of winter will be past, and I can spend more shop time with my new toys and projects.  I look forward to an exciting spring and summer!

Watch that dust!

We disassembled our heater, and here you see 2 years' worth of sawdust.  It's not as bad as I feared, but  means that we need better dust collection, and also need to be more attentive to cleaning the heater.  We're currently looking into a dust collector for the garage for the tools that have 4" ports, and will try to create an effective dust collection system for the Hegner, and for the sanders that are chucked into the SandFlee.  Of course we always wear dust masks--would hate to think of that fine stuff coating my lungs.  I can't imagine how anyone could work without the protection of the basic 3: dust mask, goggles, and hearing protection.

My Etsy store is up and running

For the past few years, my focus has been on creating innovative and interesting projects for the scrolling and woodworking community.  As a result, I've accumulated a rather large inventory of artwork, with no place to display it.  Selling was a logical next step, but this is not something that I'm comfortable doing.

So, I was delighted when one of my sons offered to set up an Etsy store for me, and to handle the sales.  He took several boxes, photographed them, and created a really lovely site.  We'll see how it goes, and take it from there.  He's asked for feedback, so if you have any comments, they'd be very welcome.

Here's the link: Carole Rothman Scroll Shop

It's good to be getting back to woodworking.  Baking is still fun, but how many loaves of bread can anyone eat?

What is Amazon doing with my box book pricing?

Talk about weird!  For reasons that make no sense to me, Amazon has listed my box book at full retail price for the past few days.  Needless to say, sales figures have dropped dramatically, which is no surprise.  Barnes and Noble has also listed it at full price, but Buy.com has it at a discount.  The bowl book is discounted on all those sites.

When my bowl book first came out, I noticed that there were price fluctuations for the book, of a dollar or two, on Amazon. When I asked my publisher what was going on, I was told that they had no control over what Amazon did.  The pricing seems to have nothing to do with how well the book is selling, so it's a mystery to me what is going on.

I would be really angry if I purchased a book at a particular price then found it on the same site, a few days later, for many dollars less.  I would also be upset if any of my readers paid more than they intended to--just doesn't seem fair.

Wiring, Day One

We're off and running!  Two good friends are helping with the wiring.  So far, my function has been mainly to supply coffee and do the lunch run, but here and there I'm able to lend a hand.

The main shop tools, and heater will be in the garage.  We'll also be wiring the basement for a table saw and sliding miter saw, and, of course, dust collection.   A plywood wall was built to make it easier to hang things, and all the wiring will be external to make any changes, and inspection, easier.  Next step will be to bring the wire up from the basement.