Welcome to my blog. Let what you see stimulate your imagination and inspire your own creations.

Friday, June 23, 2017

Another use for the Wixey DRO

I decided to get more precise and use the DRO for cutting a very basic bowl.  I usually add on an additional degree to compensate for imprecise angle settings.  For this bowl, it would mean cutting at a 28˚ angle instead of the more correct 27˚ angle.

This time, using the Wixey, I set the table to a precise 27˚, after making sure that the blade and table were square to each other before I adjusted the angle.

The results were amazing.  I cut two simple bowls, and this is the way they looked when I stacked the rings.  Now there's no going back to using the under-table angle gauge when precision is needed.

Sunday, May 21, 2017

Replacing the DRO on the SuperMax drum sander

If you've installed the Wixey digital readout (DRO) on your SuperMax drum sander, you know that in addition to the DRO made by Wixey for planers, the installation also requires some special fittings that SuperMax supplies.

I've enjoyed the greater precision that the DRO allows, and was dismayed when it stopped working.  A quick look inside the case confirmed that the two AAA batteries had leaked, despite the tool's being in regular use.  These were Amazon basic batteries, and this was the third time we've had leakage.  Coincidence?  I don't think so!

I contacted Wixey to get instructions for replacement, and found that while they sold replacement DROs, and had instructions for installation on planers, they were not familiar with the specifics of the SuperMax setup.  I learned that replacement depended upon removing the screw that held the DRO  to the bracket, but found that access to this screw was blocked by the special mounting hardware for the sander.

However, it looked like a simple job to remove the entire assembly intact, which would allow access the screw holding the DRO to the bracket.  Here's what I did:

1. I loosened the bolt that held the black bracket to the sander.

2. I removed the screws that held the silver bracket to the sander.  At that point, the unit could be removed from the sander.

3. From that point on, it was quite straight forward.  I removed the screw that held the DRO to the black SuperMax bracket and set the bracket and screw aside.  The DRO now slid freely on its vertical bar. I undid the top of the spring at the rear of the bar, which freed up the bar so I could slide it out of the DRO.

4. I slid the new DRO into place on the bar, and reattached the spring.

5. I then reattached the black SuperMax bracket to the DRO.

6. I slid the black bracket onto the bolt, tightened it slightly, then replaced the two screws in the silver unit.  I then tightened everything up, zeroed out the unit, and watched it work perfectly.

And I'm going to get a big batch of name brand AAA batteries at Costco this week!

Sunday, April 9, 2017

Finally got it off!

Most scroll saws arrive with a part that just about every experienced user removes as soon as possible--the "hold down clamp", which only serves to get in the way of effectively holding down the workpiece with firm finger pressure. Fortunately, this is always easy to remove.

The Jet scroll saw, however, arrived with an additional and unexpected part: an odd piece of metal attached to the underside of the saw table.  I'd never seen anything like this, and found that I had to work around it when inserting the  lower clamp into its holder.  I assumed the piece was a blade guard, but couldn't imagine anyone sticking their fingers under the saw table while the saw was running. Removing it seemed like the sensible thing to do.

My first efforts were not encouraging.  The piece was held on by two Phillip's head screws at its straight end, but there was so little room to work that I could not use my offset screwdriver.   I didn't want to take the table off, and since the piece didn't interfere with the cutting, decided to leave it on.  However, I read of someone's success with the offset screwdriver and decided to try again.

This time, I tilted the table fully to each side, which gave extra headroom for removing the screw on that side.  I alternated the offset with a small ratcheting screwdriver, and when I ran out of room as the screw started to come out, I removed the ratcheting bit and used a tiny wrench to turn it.

Took about an hour (!) but ultimately I prevailed.  Here's what the piece looks like when installed, and here's what I removed:

Now access to the lower clamp holder is much easier, and I think my fingers will be just as safe!

Friday, March 24, 2017

Setting the cutting angle: a cautionary tale

Most scroll saws have tilting tables, but some have a stationary table and tilting arm.  Having used both designs, and having just ruined a project because the blade was cutting at the wrong angle, I decided to try to prevent someone else from repeating my mistake.

My problem arose because the blade was not perpendicular to the table at the zero setting on the saw's angle gauge.  If that's off, then the angle gauge will not be accurate.

On the Hegner, with a tilting table and blade clamps that don't use set screws, the blade is always perpendicular to the table at the zero setting.  However, because of the possibility of parallax when reading the gauge, I use an engineer's square to check for true vertical.  And, when dealing with fractions of angles, I use a Wixey digital angle gauge on the blade and table to double check.  It's tricky to hold the Wixey on the little blade, but possible.

On the Jet, the blade may not be perpendicular when the gauge says that it is because the top and bottom set screws of the clamps are positioned to create a slight tilt when the blade is clamped.  The usual fix is to move the upper set screws in the cam clamping mechanism in or out until the blade is vertical and to leave the bottom one alone.  I made the upper correction, but may have inadvertently changed to a different lower clamp, which resulted in the tilt being off since the lower clamp also uses a set screw.  The cut was off by over half a degree, enough to ruin the project.

Most of the time, small deviations don't matter, even with bowls, especially since I always increase the angle slightly to allow for a margin of error.  However, for double-bevel inlay or for collapsible baskets, half a degree can make a big difference.

The moral of my story:  be sure your blade is perpendicular to the table when the angle gauge reads zero.  If you get into the habit of checking this each time you begin your work, you'll save yourself a lot of time, grief, and wood.

Monday, February 27, 2017

New blade to recommend

I've been experimenting with different blades, and based on a recommendation from an experienced scroller, tried out the Pegas Super Skip blades.

Very impressive performance!  The #7 easily handles 3/4" thick purpleheart, with no burn.  It's an aggressive blade, which gives it an edge over the Flying Dutchman Polar blades, which don't burn, but cut slowly.

Haven't tried Pegas for years, but I'm glad I did.  This blade is especially useful for projects such as collapsible baskets, where you cannot sand the inside rings and need a smooth, burn-free cut.

Thursday, January 19, 2017

Dizzy Bowl experiments

One great way to use up scraps of wood is to make a dizzy bowl, so named because of the swirled look created by rotating the rings.

My first attempt was a small bowl, about 6-1/2" diameter across the top.  I left it plain, since it looked pretty nice just the way it was.

My second attempt was a larger bowl, about 9-1/2" diameter, with a slightly different glue-up.  I decided, this time, to add a contrasting top ring and base that would set off the bowl without competing with it.

I'm not sure where I'll go from here, but I sure am cleaning out my scrap pile!

Thursday, December 15, 2016

Rockler flyer project link

I just received the latest Rockler flyer, which contained a link to one of my favorite projects--a really lovely holiday bow box which appeared on the cover of the December, 2013 issue of Woodworker's Journal.


Since Rockler often runs good promotions, if you haven't yet signed up for the flyer, you might want to do so.

Here's the link to the flyer

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Jet belt sander maintenance update

About two years ago, I posted a video on my YouTube channel about my discovery of the replaceable graphite pad that's under the sanding belt of the Jet belt-disc sander.  It's supposed to help keep things cooler, and also protects the metal bed that it covers.

Since the pad was never mentioned in the manual, how was anyone supposed to know that it was there, and needed periodic replacement?

Removing the original pad and cleaning the metal bed was unpleasant and time-consuming due to the strength of the adhesive backing. However, quite by accident I discovered that Klingspor's Woodworking Shop (my go-to place for most sanding supplies) sold comparable graphite strips that were 6" wide and 3' long.  Each strip was far less costly than the Jet product, and was also long enough for two complete applications.

Most important, however, is that the back of the graphite pad of the Klingspor product is not self-stick.  To attach it, cut the strip the correct length and apply Aileen's temporary spray adhesive.  When it's time for replacement, just remove the belt, pull the pad off, and clean up any residue with mineral spirits.

Even better, since only the lower part of the pad is likely to wear out, you can double the life of each pad by inverting it when it gets worn. Now there are no excuses for struggling, and I plan to check the pad each time I replace the belt.

Monday, November 7, 2016

Oval open segmented bowl

I'm into oval shapes these days, and worked up one in an open segmented version.  The trick was to keep the segments the same size all around the circumference while using my usual wedge method for this type of bowl.

Here's a picture of the bowl and what the rings looked like from the underside, once cut.  I sanded the remainder of the wedges from the center so I could use it for the base.  An alternative would have been just to use another thin piece of wood.

Same technique as I've been using, but the different shape gives it a totally new look.

Monday, October 10, 2016

Choosing a foot pedal

I had never used a foot pedal until I got my Hegner scroll saw, which came with one.  The pedal was small and thin, and very easy to use.  The only drawback was remembering to push it under the saw so that I didn't step on it unintentionally.

When I tried using the pedal that came with the Jet scroll saw, it felt like my foot was suspended in mid-air.  I know that this is a standard design, but for my size 7 foot, it was just too large and high.  It was easy enough to replace with the smaller one, since both types have provision for connecting a tool to the pedal.

Here's a picture that shows the size comparison for the two different types.  If you're in the market for a foot pedal, it would be a good idea to try out both types to see which is most comfortable for you to use.