Sanding with SuperMax

Finally gave my new SuperMax Drum sander a proper workout, and it really met all my expectations. Nice when that happens!

Second project from new shop

I'm determined to use as much of my stored wood as possible before buying or re-sawing more lumber. This bowl used part of a piece of teak I've been storing for several years.  Teak cuts very nicely, even though the silica it contains is hard on blades.  The oiliness is controlled by sanding just before gluing, and I used spray lacquer which I find to be pretty problem-free.

In addition to the teak, I used cherry and purpleheart for the decorative rings, and maple and mahogany veneers and thin wood.

The sanding and shaping was demanding and took a long time.  Even then, it wasn't perfect, but I know my limits!

Jewelry Box article in June Woodworker's Journal

It's always exciting when one of my projects appears in a "mainstream" woodworking publication like Woodworker's Journal.  This cherry jewelry box, with a removable 3-compartment insert, appears in the current issue (June, 2013).  I haven't seen the edited article yet, but they always do a super job, and I'm pleased that the project met their needs.

New sanding video is up and running

I just posted another sanding video on YouTube to cover some tips that I thought would be useful.  They are at the opposite ends of the spectrum with regard to cost, but both are worth considering.

Drum sander alternative

If you're interested in making bowls from glued-up blanks, you know that getting the finished blank flat without a drum sander is quite a task.  One of my readers found the following approach useful, and kindly made the plans available to anyone in need of a drum sander alternative.  Here it is:

I made a router planing jig based on a plan from workshopcompanion.com. I made the jig, installed an Amana 1 1/4” bowl and tray bit (#45986) which has a flat bottom, and went to work on it. The routing itself was easy.  I made shallow cuts and overlapped my passes, probably more than I needed but this was an initial test. I began by putting the flattest side face down, (wedged it in) did the routing and then flipped the piece and routed the second side. It came out amazingly good. I briefly sanded the face with 320 grit paper on my RO sander and the faces were smooth as silk and absolutely flat. My only cost was the purchase of the bit, which I got from Marden’s, Inc. in Waterville, Maine. I made my purchase thru Amazon. Marden's had this bit for about $25 whereas every else wanted $40 or more. I already had the wood so my total cost for the project was about $30 and a couple of hours work to build the jig.  I found that no matter which way you run the router against the blank there is absolutely no tear out as the bit has a 1/4” radius and does not aggressively attack the edges of the blank, regardless of the direction of the grain.

Just one more cut . . .

I am sure there are many, many sad stories from folks who were tempted to push beyond the point they should have stopped for the day, and ended up either messing up their work, or having an accident.

I was tempted to continue gluing up a decorative blank the other day, but when I thought of all the things that could have gone wrong with just that simple operation, I was glad I stopped.  The wood had to be perfectly aligned, the glue applied evenly, and clamped well in place.  Sounds simple, but under the pressure of getting it done, I could see not checking carefully for alignment, having to undo the clamps to set it right, having to put more glue on, etc. etc.

Those are small stakes compared to what can happen when you rush while using a tool like the table saw, and don't take your usual precautions.  It's so tempting to try to get as much done as possible, but the end of a work session should be just that, with a fresh start next time when you're more willing to take the time to do the job right.

Updated way to make a box

At the Saratoga Spring's woodworking show, my demo included an updated way to make a scrolled box.  This video describes the process.  If you've been making these boxes the usual way, I think you'll find the new way quite an improvement.

First project from the new shop

It seemed fitting that my first project would reflect my intention to continue work on more advanced bowls.  These are bowls that typically use two or three blanks, have curved sides, and are more time-consuming to make.  They may also have to be glued up in stages to allow access for sanding the interiors.

I included a picture of the completed bowl, as well as a picture before any exterior sanding was done.  For sanding the interior, I used both the regular and mini sized round inflatable, as well as the long inflatable drum.  For sanding the exterior, I used the regular round inflatable for the "valleys" and the 2" flexible pad sander for the rest.

I brought the bowl to the NWA show at Saratoga Springs this past weekend, and had fun teasing the turners, many of whom had no idea you could do this with the scroll saw.

Northeastern Woodworker's Showcase this weekend

Just a reminder that I'll be presenting this Saturday, from 2-3:30 PM, at the woodworking show in Saratoga Springs.  I'll be discussing various aspects of "my" type of boxes, and demonstrating some techniques.  It's always an amazing show, with lots of quality vendors, and I'm glad I'll have plenty of time for shopping!

I was pleased to be mentioned on the flyer, and my brickwork vase, pictured on the flyer, was given a nice award at last year's show.

If you'll be there, be sure to come over and say "hi".

Using a flex shaft for bowls

Well, I decided it was time to try out the flex shaft I bought to use with the chuck on the SandFlee.  After connecting all the parts, I gave both the regular and mini round sanders a tryout.  I was not sure how to hold the bowl securely with one hand, but found that placing it on my work table gave me all the support I needed.

It was a pleasure to be able to get into the bowl without having to worry about scraping the top on the chuck.  The bowl I'm working on has lobes and is curved inward (will post pix when finished), so inserting the spinning sander was a little daunting.  However, as long as I remembered not to put the sander down while it was still spinning, I did just fine.

So, I can now say without hesitation that using a flex shaft does allow options not possible with the drill press, and that control of the bowl itself is not as much of a problem as I feared.  The top of my table is masonite.  If it were anything harder, I'd probably put down something to protect the wood.