The versatile sanding mop

I've long used sanding mops to soften edges, as seen in the photo below, or smooth curved surfaces.  Recently, I've expanded their use to dramatically expedite the finishing process of bowls with curved sides.

I start with a sealer coat of thinned shellac, brushed carefully on all surfaces.  When dry, I sand the bowl with a foam-backed 320 grit pad, then buff vigorously with a well-worn, small 320 grit sanding mop.  I reapply the shellac, and buff again until the bowl feels silky and has a soft sheen.  For a more formal look, I spray on a coat of gloss lacquer.  Depending on the type of wood, that may be all that's needed, or a second coat of lacquer may be desired.

Quick, easy, and very effective!

Helpful tip for bowls with wide rings

If you're making a bowl with wide rings--3/8" or more--you can do some pre-sanding of the inside of any particular ring that has marked irregularities before you glue all the rings together.

However--and it's an important consideration--you'll still have to get the inside of all the rings smooth and completely aligned once they are glued up, so this can only be done if you have enough wood left after removing the offending places to continue with the sanding as normally done.

I use this very seldom, but sometimes if access will be a problem, and I really need to clean things up, it's worth considering as an option.

Flexible Pad Sanders: some new thoughts for bowl makers

Here's some information that can help you choose the most appropriate flexible pad sander and accessories for your bowls.

A different perspective

The two most neglected areas of scrolled bowls tend to be the top and bottom edges of the rings.

It takes a lot of patience to get the top rim evenly thinned and shaped.  And the lower edge of the bottom ring, which can't be sanded after the base is glued on, is often a nightmare.  Take off too much wood and you can't glue the base on.  I've found that sanding that ring upside down makes it easier to see the actual shape and where work needs to be done.

Just for fun, I shot pictures of two recent bowls from the top.  The effect is quite interesting and you can clearly see the shaping of the bottom ring.  I'm always very relieved when that part is done, since it's easy to lose control of the rings and have it snag on the sander and go flying.  Even if no one else notices, it's nice to be satisfied with the finished job.

Changing the size of bowls

I came across a question on the scroll saw forum recently about changing the size of a bowl. If you're considering do this, please remember that when you enlarge or reduce a bowl pattern, you are also changing the width of the rings. Since the width of the rings is one of the factors that determines the cutting angle, you must re-calculate the cutting angle so your rings will stack properly.

If you have the bowl book, you'll find an easy to use formula in the Appendix. If you don't have the book, try the AngleCalc utility on scrollmania.com, adding a degree or two for safety.

And if you really get stuck, drop me a line and I'll help you figure it out. No point in wasting good wood if you don't have to!

2012 Northeastern Woodworkers Show

I think I forgot to mention that I'll be doing two demos at this year's Northeastern Woodworkers Show in Saratoga Springs, NY. The show starts on Saturday, March 31st and ends on Sunday, April 1. I'll be doing a demo on making bowls each day, from 1PM-2PM.

The rest of the time, when I'm not buying stuff, I'll be at the Advanced Machinery table (Hegner scroll saws). We'll have both books there, and I'll bring along some bowl and box projects. If you're planning to attend, please drop by and say hello.