Two tips for gluing up bowl rings

Here are some tips to help you get better glue-ups of your bowl rings.

Easy fix to make a taller bowl press

I finally got tired of using a stack of books for gluing bowls that were too tall for my press.   I didn't want to undo the press, just add some height, so I added a few coupling nuts and some threaded rod.  For a more elegant version, check out Dave Van Ess's bowl press on scrollmania.com.  It's really neat and fits into its own box.

For now, this will do just fine!

Jury still out on the SandFlee, and a new sanding tip

I finally have the SandFlee operating properly, although it took a 1/16" shim under one of the hinges to get the table level by the drum. I've installed the fence, which was an easy job. I haven't yet used it as a jointer, which is one reason why I bought it, but a preliminary test on a ragged edge looked promising. I need to plan out an interesting glue-up to give it a "field test".

However, I have been disappointed using it to flatten rings. I assumed that passing it over the roller would automatically remove any irregularities. What I seem to be finding instead is that when a ring is cut at an angle, forces may be released that prevent the ring from lying completely flat. This doesn't always happen, but has happened frequently enough to be an issue to contend with. When this happens, just sanding the gluing surface evenly, whether with the SandFlee or sandpaper glued to a flat tile, does not change things. The spaces are generally small, 1/32" or less.

What does work is selective sanding with the sandpaper glued to a tile. I look carefully at where there are spaces. You can use a flashlight or bulb, or strip of paper, to confirm. I then sand the surrounding areas that are too high by exerting unequal pressure on those spots, or if it's a corner, by just sanding that corner slightly. Then I check, and repeat the process as often as needed. The payoff is that you will not get a visible glueline between the rings. Sometimes there is enough flex in the ring for it to flatten out with pressure from the bowl press during glue-up, so it often becomes a judgment call.

The situation to avoid is a space that will not close when you exert pressure. That will result in a product that you won't be proud of. Take a break when you've "had it", then come back later. You'll be happier that you did!

Why you need a bowl press

I had to glue up a tiny lamination, about 3" x 3", so I put it in my bowl press to dry. By using a piece of wood under the lamination and spacers, it worked pretty well. I wanted to do another one, and didn't want to wait until the first was dry, so I tried to do it conventionally, by using various clamps. What a nightmare! And even worse, the glue-up wasn't as tight as I wanted.

While making the press (which can't be called a bowl press in my box book, for obvious reasons) takes a little effort, it is extremely useful for any small project that needs firm, even pressure and is susceptible to slippage. I think the picture tells it all.

Bowl presses are really worth making

I always recommend the use of a press for gluing up rings, rather than boards and clamps, and have a simple plan for one in my bowl book. I've been using it for everything, from gluing on box bottoms to laminating wood and veneer, and even have a square version for larger areas.

Well, a few days ago I got lazy, and decided to try gluing on a small box bottom the conventional way. As the pieces slipped out of alignment, I quickly regretted my decision and reached for my press. The control over the pressure, not to mention the likelihood of the parts staying where they are supposed to, convinces me that even people who don't make bowls can benefit from this handy shop-made device.