Setting the cutting angle: a cautionary tale

Most scroll saws have tilting tables, but some have a stationary table and tilting arm.  Having used both designs, and having just ruined a project because the blade was cutting at the wrong angle, I decided to try to prevent someone else from repeating my mistake.

My problem arose because the blade was not perpendicular to the table at the zero setting on the saw's angle gauge.  If that's off, then the angle gauge will not be accurate.

On the Hegner, with a tilting table and blade clamps that don't use set screws, the blade is always perpendicular to the table at the zero setting.  However, because of the possibility of parallax when reading the gauge, I use an engineer's square to check for true vertical.  And, when dealing with fractions of angles, I use a Wixey digital angle gauge on the blade and table to double check.  It's tricky to hold the Wixey on the little blade, but possible.

On the Jet, the blade may not be perpendicular when the gauge says that it is because the top and bottom set screws of the clamps are positioned to create a slight tilt when the blade is clamped.  The usual fix is to move the upper set screws in the cam clamping mechanism in or out until the blade is vertical and to leave the bottom one alone.  I made the upper correction, but may have inadvertently changed to a different lower clamp, which resulted in the tilt being off since the lower clamp also uses a set screw.  The cut was off by over half a degree, enough to ruin the project.

Most of the time, small deviations don't matter, even with bowls, especially since I always increase the angle slightly to allow for a margin of error.  However, for double-bevel inlay or for collapsible baskets, half a degree can make a big difference.

The moral of my story:  be sure your blade is perpendicular to the table when the angle gauge reads zero.  If you get into the habit of checking this each time you begin your work, you'll save yourself a lot of time, grief, and wood.

Choosing a foot pedal

I had never used a foot pedal until I got my Hegner scroll saw, which came with one.  The pedal was small and thin, and very easy to use.  The only drawback was remembering to push it under the saw so that I didn't step on it unintentionally.

When I tried using the pedal that came with the Jet scroll saw, it felt like my foot was suspended in mid-air.  I know that this is a standard design, but for my size 7 foot, it was just too large and high.  It was easy enough to replace with the smaller one, since both types have provision for connecting a tool to the pedal.

Here's a picture that shows the size comparison for the two different types.  If you're in the market for a foot pedal, it would be a good idea to try out both types to see which is most comfortable for you to use.

My Hegner scroll saw

I enjoy sharing my experiences with tools with other woodworkers, especially since there are so few places see or test out tools before buying.  This video focuses on those aspects of the Hegner that make it a fine tool to own, and a rewarding one to use.

Scroll saw inserts

Some scroll saws, like the Hegner, have removable center inserts, while others, like the DeWalt, have an opening for the blade that is cut directly into the saw table.  Having used both types of saws, I prefer removable inserts.  Here's why:

1. If you accidentally cut into the table itself, there's not much you can do to correct the problem.  If you cut into an insert, you can replace it easily.

2. If you need more support for your workpiece than a regular insert (left) provides, or if you are cutting tiny pieces that will fall through the opening, you can replace the regular insert with a zero clearance insert.  The one for the Hegner comes uncut (center), and you cut into it with the blade of your choice (right).

If your saw has no insert and you must reduce the room around the blade, you can make do with a playing card taped to the table--less elegant, but better than nothing.

NE Woodworkers Show at Saratoga Springs, NY

One of the nicest woodworking shows around is hosted by the Northeastern Woodworkers Association, and held each year at the end of March.  There are wonderful displays of projects, free demos and classes, and lots of quality vendors.  I shared a table with Advanced Machinery, the North American distributor of Hegner scroll saws.  We had books on hand for sale, and projects for folks to see.  It was fun introducing folks to my style of scrolling.

I was scheduled for two presentations on scrolled bowls, which were a lot of fun to do.  The only glitch was that somehow, in the presentation schedule, "bowls" became "boxes".  Since it was too late to correct the printing, I was told to put a few of my projects in the display area, with a book cover and a note indicating when the classes would be held.  I never expected to be entered into the judging, and was completely astonished to find that one of my projects had won an award!

It was an exhausting weekend, but lots of fun.  And, as a bonus, I was able to meet many of my forum friends.  If you live anywhere close, consider coming next year.  You won't be disappointed.

2012 Northeastern Woodworkers Show

I think I forgot to mention that I'll be doing two demos at this year's Northeastern Woodworkers Show in Saratoga Springs, NY. The show starts on Saturday, March 31st and ends on Sunday, April 1. I'll be doing a demo on making bowls each day, from 1PM-2PM.

The rest of the time, when I'm not buying stuff, I'll be at the Advanced Machinery table (Hegner scroll saws). We'll have both books there, and I'll bring along some bowl and box projects. If you're planning to attend, please drop by and say hello.

Larry and DW make bowls from Corian

Two members of the scroll saw forum have started making bowls from Corian. The white round bowl was made by Larry, and the lobed muted-tone bowl was made by DW. The only substantial change from making wooden bowls was the substitution of CA glue for the wood glue usually used.

I'm pleased to share these innovations with you, and will continue to post pictures of work that reflects new applications of the basic approach. Thanks, Larry and DW, for sharing your work.

A useful program for making patterns

I've usually used very low-tech methods for making my patterns--ruler, compass, cookie cutters, graph paper, etc. While that usually is sufficient, it's not the easiest way to make a pattern for a bowl or stacked ring box.

I've recently started using a program called PolyDraw, created by Dave von Ess, available on the scrollmania.com website, which lets you create rings of various shapes and widths pretty easily. There's a tutorial to walk you through creating basic shapes--round, oval, rounded square, ripple--and once you've gotten the hang of it, you can play with various configurations. Patterns can be saved either as files that load right into the program, or as pdf's once you've drawn them.

I used the program for the outline of the 7-lobed box, and was pleased with how much easier it was than trying to draw a shape like this freehand. Dave is very helpful if you run into problems, and there's an email provided for this purpose.

Old items, new uses

As I continue editing the manuscript for the new box book, I'm struck by the way we get locked into using tools and materials conventionally.

For example, baking parchment, which is silicon treated, is a good alternative to wax paper for keeping clamps from sticking to wood during glue-ups. If you can get the heavyweight kind, it will last almost indefinitely.

And, for getting epoxy into small holes, a #3 cake decorating tip works much better than a toothpick. Use plastic wrap or a glove to protect your finger, and push the epoxy right into the hole. Drop the tip into a small amount of acetone to clean it when you're through.

My Hegner scroll saw

I've now been using my Hegner 18" scroll saw for several weeks. I'd used the DeWalt 788 for several years, so I expected some period of adjustment. Since the Hegner is a much more expensive machine, I was curious as to whether I would really notice a difference. The answer is a definite yes!

The Hegner blade clamping system is completely different from the DeWalt. I was never able to tighten the blade clamps on the DeWalt without my little homemade device that slipped over the knobs, so using a tool for blade changes was not a big deal. Although lining up the blade for the Hegner clamps does take practice, once clamped, the blade holds beautifully. And there's an accessory that lets you release the upper clamp, so bottom feeding, which is what I do, is no problem.

The biggest change I noticed was in the accuracy and smoothness of my cutting. Doing the same project with the same blade, the difference between the two saws was remarkable. My cuts are definitely smoother with the Hegner, with less distortion on thick wood. Cuts that were problematic are no longer difficult, and my "remedial sanding" has been reduced dramatically.

Lacking an opportunity to "test drive" different high-end saws, I chose the Hegner because of its small size and extremely helpful and responsive customer service. I ruled out the Excalibur from the start primarily because I wanted the photos in my books, articles, and posts to show a saw with a tilting table, not a tilting head.

I knew I could not go wrong with the Hegner, but I was not prepared for the tremendous difference a quality tool makes.