Welcome to my blog. Let what you see stimulate your imagination and inspire your own creations.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Bed Box #2

I figured it was time to try out those fabric paints that have been hanging around waiting to be used.  The bed is a larger version of the one I posted previously, with a slightly different headboard and footboard.  I used a pattern for the "bedspread" that was similar to ones that I've used for cakes (with icing, not paint, of course!).  Now to figure out what else I can add to my "furniture suite".

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

New lid liner technique

Many scrolled boxes uses a technique where the inside of the box is cut out, the inside face is sanded, the wood for the bottom is glued on, and the outside profile is cut.  Lids for this type of box are usually cut from wood that is 1/4" to 1/2" thick, and match the profile of the box.  These lids are usually held in place by a liner that varies from 1/8" to 14" thick.

As I worked on the projects for the box book, I found that the easiest way to get an accurate outline for the liner was to turn the box upside down on the wood for the liner, after the inside was sanded, but before the bottom was glued on.  It was easy, at that point, to trace the inside profile of the box directly on the wood and get a liner that fit well.  The lid would then be cut from the same pattern as the box and the liner would be glued into place.

However, gluing the liner to the lid was tricky, since clamping tended to move the liner out of alignment.  I always found that I needed to check and readjust the liner several times until I was satisfied that it was in the right place.  There had to be a better way!

I discovered this "better way" just last week, as Joe was making a guitar box for his grandson.  Since the profile was fairly involved, the liner had to fit just right or the lid would not line up properly.  It occurred to me that it might make sense to change the order of things and my idea worked out very well.  Here's what it involves:

1. Glue the liner to the underside of the piece of wood for the lid.  Clamp the liner and let it dry.
2. Invert the completed box body on the liner, hold it firmly in place and trace its outline.

3. Cut the lid along the outline.

This not only gives you a lid that matches the sanded box body, but a liner that is perfectly positioned. Too bad it took so long to figure this out, but I guess some ideas just need to percolate a bit.

And yes, Joe is allowed to use my scroll saw if he promises to treat it gently.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

A new piece of furniture

I was playing around with some squares I had left over from another project, and decided to try a box that looked like a bed.  I looked at lots of pictures of headboards and footboards to find something attractive yet easy to make, and finally found one that worked.

I'm currently trying out some variations, but I think for a first attempt, this came out pretty well.  And it's always nice to use up leftover wood!

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

A new take on the "bonus box"

I recently received some photos from a very talented woodworker, Raymond Luckhaupt, who puts his own creative "spin" on projects from my books.  The work shown here is his take on my Bonus Box, which uses one lamination for two boxes.  Ray took this concept one step further, and used the remainder of the lamination from the round box for the lid.  His work is very special, and I was pleased that he gave me permission to share it.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

You get what you pay for

I recently came across a forum post regarding a large silver knob sold by Hegner. This part can replace the standard upper blade holder if you need to feed the blade through an entry hole. I use it all the time for bowls, and also for cutting out the inside of boxes.

I was aware that there is a lever available for the Hegner that serves the same purpose as the knob, and is a lot cheaper. This lever is not made by Hegner. I was curious about the difference between the two, and why the knob is so much more costly. It seems that what looks like a threaded bolt attached to the knob actually has a pivot at the end that keeps the blade from bending or twisting as you tighten the knob.

It's still an expensive piece of equipment, but like the rest of the saw, really does a great job.