Useful equipment for gluing

With many of my newer projects using veneer, I've been forced to face the reality that smearing glue with my fingers is probably not the best technique to use.  I was intrigued by a few pieces of equipment featured in a Rockler catalogue that looked just right for my purposes, and took advantage of a free shipping offer to give them a try.

I've long used silicon brushes for baking, and have been impressed with how easily they cleaned up.  This silicon glue brush is angled, and perfect for spreading glue.  The silicon tray holds just the right amount of glue securely, and although I haven't used the spreader yet, I'm sure it will help spread the glue on larger pieces of veneer.  It reminds me of how you spread thinset mortar for tiling.

So, although I tend not to buy the latest "gimmicks", this was certainly money well spent!

Not only for gelatin molds

I came across an interesting item in an old woodworking magazine, in an article on glues. It seems that hide glue, which is seldom used anymore, is made from gelatin. In a pinch, a quick version can be made right in the kitchen, using the powdered gelatin that's usually sold in little packets. Even though most homes these days are more likely to have glue on hand than powdered gelatin, I had to give it a try.

The proportions are 2-1/2 parts cold water to 1 part gelatin. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water to soften it. When it has softened, it will look mushy. Heat the mixture gently--I used the microwave--taking care not to let it boil. It will become clear. At that point, apply it to the wood. The article said that the open time is only 60 seconds, but I think it's a little longer than that. Once I glued the wood together and let it set up, I was completely amazed at how strong it was. Of course this glue does not stand up well to moisture, but for a quick and easy non-toxic glue it is quite amazing.

It also might be a fun project for kids, although who knows what they will think of to glue together!

Dealing with glue spots

Some of my projects involve a lot of fidgety gluing and glue spots have an annoying way of showing up despite all my efforts to remove excess glue. To find the spots, I give the project a sealer coat of shellac, which causes the glue spots to stand out very visibly. I mark them with chalk as soon as the shellac is dry enough for the chalk to adhere. Once the shellac is thoroughly dry, the glue spots become harder to see. I find that shellac works better for me than mineral spirits, and gives a good base for additional coats of shellac or spray lacquer.

The project in the picture is a small box with a loopy bow. The blue tape on the top of the lid keeps the area where the loops will be glued on free of shellac. Once the box is finished, the loops are glued on and sprayed. This project is for the "Boxes with Bows" chapter of my new book, which should be out in about a year or so.

A neat little detail sander

I am far from the neatest gluer, and usually put too much glue on my pieces. This means a major clean-up while the glue is still soft, and some tricky sanding once the glue has dried. To get into tight or hard to reach places, I use a small piece of adhesive backed sandpaper stuck around the end of a very thin flat file. This gives me more control and greater pressure than finger strength alone. If you don't have a small file, a flat blade screwdriver will also work.