I came across a post on the scroll saw forum that mentioned a recent video review of my box book by Steve Ramsey, who has a very active and popular woodworking site. Of course I had to take a look, and I was tickled by his enthusiasm about the projects. It was interesting that he assumed that the projects required a high skill level, which they really don't. Since my primary aim in designing projects is for them to be fun to make, give and receive, I was really pleased by his response.
The review is somewhere in the middle of the video. If you're curious, take a look. I'd never heard of him, but apparently he's been around a while. And of course I'm grateful for anything that helps get the word out about my work!
Sunday, October 28, 2012
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
A new use for the Hegner
We're still trying to figure out whether to put the shop in the garage or basement, comparing set-up costs, convenience, etc., so it will still be a while before I can get down to some serious work.
However, that doesn't mean we don't need to have usable tools. Today's project was to convert a single mailbox stand to one that can hold two mailboxes (Post Office regulations--don't ask!). The only accessible saw was the Hegner, so we plugged it into the garage opener outlet and I made the needed cuts. Hardly precision work, but shows how versatile the scroll saw can be. Fortunately, I had some heavy-duty blades on hand, and was actually able to find them amid the mess. As you can see, we have a way to go, but we're getting there, little by little.
However, that doesn't mean we don't need to have usable tools. Today's project was to convert a single mailbox stand to one that can hold two mailboxes (Post Office regulations--don't ask!). The only accessible saw was the Hegner, so we plugged it into the garage opener outlet and I made the needed cuts. Hardly precision work, but shows how versatile the scroll saw can be. Fortunately, I had some heavy-duty blades on hand, and was actually able to find them amid the mess. As you can see, we have a way to go, but we're getting there, little by little.
Monday, October 8, 2012
Photographing your work
Whether you're submitting your work to a magazine, posting to a blog, or just sharing with a friend, a little attention to detail can produce a photo that does justice to your work. Here are a few tips:
First, be sure that the background is not distracting. A seamless background can easily be made using a table placed against a wall, and a sheet of poster board. Prop the poster board against the wall lengthwise, with about half resting on the table. This should give you sufficient area to completely surround the project.
Be sure the picture is in focus. Unless you have a steady hand, or your camera has an "anti shake" feature, use a tripod or some other way to stabilize the camera.
Use natural lighting if possible. If you must add light, position the lighting on both sides of the project to prevent shadows. If you are using only one source, try moving the light until you're satisfied. If shadows are an issue, try draping a handkerchief or thin cloth over the light.
And finally, take pictures from different angles. You can do this by rotating the project or by moving the camera. Upload them to your computer for a closer look, and to "tweak" them, if needed, with editing software.
First, be sure that the background is not distracting. A seamless background can easily be made using a table placed against a wall, and a sheet of poster board. Prop the poster board against the wall lengthwise, with about half resting on the table. This should give you sufficient area to completely surround the project.
Be sure the picture is in focus. Unless you have a steady hand, or your camera has an "anti shake" feature, use a tripod or some other way to stabilize the camera.
Use natural lighting if possible. If you must add light, position the lighting on both sides of the project to prevent shadows. If you are using only one source, try moving the light until you're satisfied. If shadows are an issue, try draping a handkerchief or thin cloth over the light.
And finally, take pictures from different angles. You can do this by rotating the project or by moving the camera. Upload them to your computer for a closer look, and to "tweak" them, if needed, with editing software.
Thursday, September 27, 2012
More about blades
It never hurts to try out different blades on the same piece of wood. Sometimes a smaller blade will cut more effectively than a larger one, or a particular tooth configuration will really make a difference, as with the Flying Dutchman polar blades.
When faced with a really dense piece of wood, like jatoba or ipé, or a thick piece of cherry, on a project that doesn't require tight turns, my go-to blade is the Flying Dutchman #12 reverse tooth (FD 12R). Add some tape (clear or blue) over the wood or pattern to help with the cutting and reduce burning, and you should be able to handle almost any piece of wood.
When faced with a really dense piece of wood, like jatoba or ipé, or a thick piece of cherry, on a project that doesn't require tight turns, my go-to blade is the Flying Dutchman #12 reverse tooth (FD 12R). Add some tape (clear or blue) over the wood or pattern to help with the cutting and reduce burning, and you should be able to handle almost any piece of wood.
Sunday, September 16, 2012
A quick tip
Although it will take time to get the new shop up and running, I'll still be posting on the blog as usual.
The quick tip that I want to offer is that Flying Dutchman Polar blade is just super for Corian and for acrylic. I had never used this blade before, and was absolutely blown away by how easy it was to work with these materials.
I used the #5, because that's what I had on hand, to cut both 1/4" acrylic and 1/2" Corian. I took extra care to cut precisely, and slowed the speed on the acrylic to prevent melting. Really opens up a whole new set of possibilities!
The quick tip that I want to offer is that Flying Dutchman Polar blade is just super for Corian and for acrylic. I had never used this blade before, and was absolutely blown away by how easy it was to work with these materials.
I used the #5, because that's what I had on hand, to cut both 1/4" acrylic and 1/2" Corian. I took extra care to cut precisely, and slowed the speed on the acrylic to prevent melting. Really opens up a whole new set of possibilities!
Saturday, September 8, 2012
My poor shop!
Well, everything is packed up and ready for the move on Wednesday. We'll try to get the new shop up and running in one bay of the two-car garage, then tackle preparing a basement shop at leisure. It hurts to see things in such disarray, but there should be many new possibilities, including a drum sander (at last!) in our new location. Of course, the basics (food, bedding, etc.) have to come first, but once that's done, we can get to work on the shop. Won't have to worry about keeping busy this winter, that's for sure!
Thursday, August 30, 2012
Ending on an upbeat note
Before packing up the "shop" in preparation for our move next month, I was determined to get one last project completed. Given all the packing and arrangements that have to be taken care of before we leave, the project had to be something simple and quickly completed.
Since time and energy were both in short supply, I cut a simple piece from the latest issue of Creative Woodworks & Crafts. I used quarter sawn white oak for the letters, and an oval of purpleheart for the backer. I plan to give it to a good friend, who is just setting up her new home and could use something cheerful on the walls.
Now I've tied up the loose ends and am ready to pack up my wood and tools. Once we move, getting a shop going will be a top priority, and I'm looking forward to making sawdust again.
Since time and energy were both in short supply, I cut a simple piece from the latest issue of Creative Woodworks & Crafts. I used quarter sawn white oak for the letters, and an oval of purpleheart for the backer. I plan to give it to a good friend, who is just setting up her new home and could use something cheerful on the walls.
Now I've tied up the loose ends and am ready to pack up my wood and tools. Once we move, getting a shop going will be a top priority, and I'm looking forward to making sawdust again.
Sunday, August 19, 2012
Rare earth magnets
Looking for a neat way to keep box lids closed, I started using tiny rare earth magnets. In small sizes, 1/8" to 1/4", they are strong enough to secure the lid, but not so strong that the lid is difficult to open.
Although I recess them so they're flush, and secure them with epoxy, it's still important to keep projects that use them away from children. There have been recent concerns about toys designed for adult use that contain multiple loose magnets. These have serious consequences for children who swallow them, especially if they swallow more than one.
To be on the safe side, it would be prudent to keep any project using these magnets away from children, and to advise anyone to whom you give or sell these projects to do the same. Since delicate or fragile items are typically kept away from children as a matter of course, it should not be a problem to add these to the list.
Although I recess them so they're flush, and secure them with epoxy, it's still important to keep projects that use them away from children. There have been recent concerns about toys designed for adult use that contain multiple loose magnets. These have serious consequences for children who swallow them, especially if they swallow more than one.
To be on the safe side, it would be prudent to keep any project using these magnets away from children, and to advise anyone to whom you give or sell these projects to do the same. Since delicate or fragile items are typically kept away from children as a matter of course, it should not be a problem to add these to the list.
Wednesday, August 8, 2012
The problem with leftover wood
In preparation for a move to a new home, I've been sorting through the wood I have on hand, deciding what to take and what to leave. Large pieces of wood, especially the more expensive hardwoods and exotics, are an easy decision--they come with me. Small pieces of common wood are not a problem either. Since they're easy to replace, they're easy to leave. And small scraps of exotic wood don't take up a lot of storage space, so they're coming along, too.
The real problem I'm having is with the smaller pieces of hardwood like cherry and maple, left over from past projects, that are could be made into something, but are more likely to take up permanent residence in a box stuck under a table. So, with some reluctance, I'm forcing myself to be realistic, and leaving them behind.
I am hoping that when we get our new and more spacious shop up and running, I'll be able to sort my wood in such a way that I can easily put my hands on what I need. I guess everyone starts out with plans like that--let's see if I can actually pull it off!
The real problem I'm having is with the smaller pieces of hardwood like cherry and maple, left over from past projects, that are could be made into something, but are more likely to take up permanent residence in a box stuck under a table. So, with some reluctance, I'm forcing myself to be realistic, and leaving them behind.
I am hoping that when we get our new and more spacious shop up and running, I'll be able to sort my wood in such a way that I can easily put my hands on what I need. I guess everyone starts out with plans like that--let's see if I can actually pull it off!
Saturday, July 28, 2012
Clockwise and Counterclockwise
Recently, I've seen a couple of posts from folks who are confused about table tilt and cutting direction. This comes up with bowls, inlay, and other situations where you need to cut at an angle. It's not that complicated, but easy to get confused. Here are some basics:
1. Most saw tables will tilt fully in either direction, but not all. If they tilt in only one direction, it is usually left side down. If yours tilts right side down, or if you prefer that orientation, just reverse the direction of the cut from what's given in the instructions. In other words, left side down clockwise is the same as right side down counterclockwise.
2. Cutting clockwise means that you move the wood in a counterclockwise direction. The blade gives the illusion that it is cutting clockwise. When the table is tilted left side down, the resulting cut will be larger on the upper face than on the lower face.
3. Cutting counterclockwise means that you move the wood in a clockwise direction. When the table is tilted left side down, the resulting cut will be smaller on the upper face than the lower face.
I use counterclockwise cutting for my projects primarily when I know the smaller dimension, not the larger one, as when creating a neck or a base. If you're ever unsure of which way to cut, use a piece of scrap to try it out. No fun wasting your last piece of good wood!
1. Most saw tables will tilt fully in either direction, but not all. If they tilt in only one direction, it is usually left side down. If yours tilts right side down, or if you prefer that orientation, just reverse the direction of the cut from what's given in the instructions. In other words, left side down clockwise is the same as right side down counterclockwise.
2. Cutting clockwise means that you move the wood in a counterclockwise direction. The blade gives the illusion that it is cutting clockwise. When the table is tilted left side down, the resulting cut will be larger on the upper face than on the lower face.
3. Cutting counterclockwise means that you move the wood in a clockwise direction. When the table is tilted left side down, the resulting cut will be smaller on the upper face than the lower face.
I use counterclockwise cutting for my projects primarily when I know the smaller dimension, not the larger one, as when creating a neck or a base. If you're ever unsure of which way to cut, use a piece of scrap to try it out. No fun wasting your last piece of good wood!
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