I needed to sand a wide board today, and had not yet tried to remove the dark stripe running down the middle of the abrasive on the drum.
So, following the instructions provided by SuperMax, I used a small piece of plexiglass to scrape the abrasive clean. It took some work, but I was able to remove the entire mess pretty easily. If I had removed it when it first appeared, it would have been a really quick job.
Pretty good save of a fairly new sandpaper strip!
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
Tuesday, July 22, 2014
SuperMax sander scores again!
I've been delighted with my SuperMax 19-38 drum sander from the get-go, and am especially pleased with their great customer service.
Recently I developed a problem with lines appearing on the abrasive that were not from glue. I didn't think the cherry or hard maple I was using were particularly resinous, so I was clueless. Here are the photos I sent them:
I contacted SuperMax, and here's the response I received:
These black lines are build-up on and in the abrasive. Usually caused by a glue line or resin line in the stock being sanded. Easiest method to prevent/reduce these lines are to angle the stock being sanded. A 30 degree angle is ideal. If the stock is too wide for that, any angle is helpful. Even a 1 or 2 degree angle can dramatically reduce build-up.
As for resin lines, Cherry and Hard Maple are the most prone to this kind of build-up. Again, angling is helpful as is less depth of cut and a faster feed rate than used with other woods.
These lines can be removed with using clear plexiglass on edge as an abrasive cleaner. Or the abrasives can also be soaked in paint thinner or mineral spirits, which will dry out the build-up. Then it can be brushed out with a stiff nylon brush.
If the lines are developing from Cherry or Hard Maple and are not from glue lines, the other option is using a cooler running abrasive such as the blue Zirconium… Please let me know if you have questions or if I can be of any service.
If you need a drum sander, I'd suggest you give this one serious consideration. It's a little more money, but for a lot more tool, and you can't beat the customer service.
Recently I developed a problem with lines appearing on the abrasive that were not from glue. I didn't think the cherry or hard maple I was using were particularly resinous, so I was clueless. Here are the photos I sent them:
I contacted SuperMax, and here's the response I received:
These black lines are build-up on and in the abrasive. Usually caused by a glue line or resin line in the stock being sanded. Easiest method to prevent/reduce these lines are to angle the stock being sanded. A 30 degree angle is ideal. If the stock is too wide for that, any angle is helpful. Even a 1 or 2 degree angle can dramatically reduce build-up.
As for resin lines, Cherry and Hard Maple are the most prone to this kind of build-up. Again, angling is helpful as is less depth of cut and a faster feed rate than used with other woods.
These lines can be removed with using clear plexiglass on edge as an abrasive cleaner. Or the abrasives can also be soaked in paint thinner or mineral spirits, which will dry out the build-up. Then it can be brushed out with a stiff nylon brush.
If the lines are developing from Cherry or Hard Maple and are not from glue lines, the other option is using a cooler running abrasive such as the blue Zirconium… Please let me know if you have questions or if I can be of any service.
If you need a drum sander, I'd suggest you give this one serious consideration. It's a little more money, but for a lot more tool, and you can't beat the customer service.
Sunday, July 20, 2014
Work in process
I've been working on some new projects using a texturing compound that dries hard like wood, but can be applied with a piping bag and tip. Before doing an actual project, I experimented with the compound, and also with fabric paints, to see what the limitations were.
Here's a picture of some of the preliminary effects I played with, and some wood that's been prepped for an actual project. When I start off in this way, I never know where I'll end up, and I already have quite a punch list of things to try. Those that work will probably end up as published articles for everyone to enjoy, and those that don't are still a learning experience!
Here's a picture of some of the preliminary effects I played with, and some wood that's been prepped for an actual project. When I start off in this way, I never know where I'll end up, and I already have quite a punch list of things to try. Those that work will probably end up as published articles for everyone to enjoy, and those that don't are still a learning experience!
Wednesday, July 9, 2014
Outdoor spray booth
Whoever said that spraying had to be a hassle? At this time of year, I just tape some newspaper to a stool, find a shady spot, do my spraying, then move inside to let things dry. Of course wind, rain, pollen, birds, etc. can be a problem at times, but generally, the ease and speed of this low-tech method can't be beat!
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